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Galapagos Arrival
March 27th
We’re anchored in Wreck Bay, off the Island of San Cristobal. It was quite a hectic arrival. We dropped anchor in 36-feet of water and were immediately approached by our agent (we’ve no idea how he knew we were arriving at that time) who informed us that we would be inspected by the environmental agency in 30 minutes. It was a mad rush to get the below-decks looking presentable and make sure everything was in order. I also made a quick foray up the mast, since in my haste to tie the courtesy and quarantine flags onto the flag halyard I had tied a poor knot on the latter and they were both looking quite sad dangling by one piece of string from the starboard spreader. We have found that officials in these parts of the world often put great store in appearances and that first impressions are important, so we figured they might not appreciate seeing their national flag in a twisted heap. Anyway, having fixed all that we were invaded by at least 8 different officials who thrust various bits of paper at us to fill in and sign (I’ve no idea what half of them were) while hurling questions at me as if i were a celebrity being hounded by the Paparazzi. ‘Capitan, what were your last 10 ports of call? Where are your trash cans? What is the capacity of your holding tanks? Do you have any animals on board? Where are your documents? Do you have copies? What is your etc. etc. etc. ‘ Meanwhile a guy turned up in a skin-diving suit to inspect our hull (we’d scrubbed it thoroughly in Las Perlas and again one day before arriving in San Cristobal while at sea) and another guy turned up in a terminator suit with something resembling a bazooka. We were informed that this man was the fumigator and summarily instructed to go to shore and not come back for 4 hours. I hadn’t even finished anchoring properly! Having seen no signs of human existence for the last 7 days other than a single ship which passed some 4 miles away from us, this onslaught was, to put it mildly, quite a shock. The important thing however is that we passed the various inspections and have now been granted permission to stay for up to 60 days – a freedom that we intent to make the most of having spent $1,500 for the privilege of the invasion. I can’t help but think that the British have lost their touch when it comes to invading places. We haven’t done much of it in quite some time but the Spanish on the other hand have continued to hone their skills in this field quite diligently, while appearing the whole time to be doing the invadee a great service.I digress a smidgen! The passage from Las Perlas – a lovely group of islands on the Pacific side of Panama where we spent two secluded days before setting off to come here – was absolutely wonderful. The general weather conditions for the passage between Panama and Galapagos are light winds or no wind at all. Initially we had intended to take a straight-line route and spend a lot of time chugging along using the engine, since there was no wind forecast at all for the entire passage. The day that we set off from Las Perlas however the forecast changed to favour the ‘traditional’ route of cutting South toward mainland Ecuador before turning West toward Galapagos. This is what we did, and by going as fast as we could (comfortably) we managed to stay with the winds for almost the entirety of the passage. A friend who arrived in Galapagos two weeks before us was pleased to have only had to motor half way. We were very, very fortunate in only having to motor for a total of 23 hours. We also had the longest run in 24 hours that Bob has ever achieved – 165 miles from noon to noon, measured in a straight line from one noon position to the next – and could have made the whole passage in 7 days if we had been so inclined. The wind dropped out in the evenings toward the end of the passage, and on our final night we simply took in all sail and drifted slowly toward San Cristobal with a 1.5 knot current pushing us along nicely. Our days on this passage were spent largely reading, discussing the various characteristics of our fishing lures, discussing life in general and occasionally pulling on a bit of string to tweak a whatsit or somethingorother. Given the forecast i was confident enough to set one of our more racy spinnakers – a lightweight assymetric racing spinnaker from a J105 that was donated to me some years ago – and leave it up for a good 36 hours without having to worry that we’d encounter a sudden squall, or that increasing winds might make dropping it with just the two of us problematic.
March 31st
San Cristobal has changed a huge amount since my last visit in 2003. The tourism industry has boomed and infrastructure has not lagged far behind. What used to be a sleepy town with dilapidated roads, a few bars and couple of shops selling odds and ends is now a teeming tourist trap with boutiques selling plastic turtles and sea lions, companies selling guided tours (it is now impossible to visit most places without hiring a guide, and most tours are in the vicinity of $100 per person or more), dive companies abound, butchers, bakers and probably candlestick makers. Miraculously, it hasn’t lost it’s charm however. The new cobblestone streets are picturesque, the sea lions are still the dominant species (over humans) and the people are very friendly. They are used to speaking to people such as ourselves whose command of Spanish is pitiful, so they speak slowly and simply to us and every now and then we actually manage to complete a conversation without running into a vocabularial dead end.We enjoyed San Cristobal and are by no means done there. It looks like it might be the best place for Sarah to do a dive course, things seem to be relatively inexpensive (if you buy the right things) and despite it’s incredible development over the last 13 years it is still way behind Santa Cruz. We moved here to Santa Cruz yesterday after a day-sail of 40-miles or so in order to meet Sarah’s mother who is due to arrive from the UK at about the time i am writing this. It was a great sail despite the forecast of 1 knot of wind; bottlenose dolphins and sealions kept us company for 15 minutes or so, and i particularly enjoyed sailing past the Island of Santa Fe, or ‘Barrington’ as it is also known (alas, bureacracy does not allow us to stop anywhere except ‘designated ports’, which now number just 3 in the entire archipelago). Bernard Moitessier and his wife Francoise spent some time on this island during their incredible voyage around Cape Horn in the mid-1960s. Having read his account (‘Cape Horn: The Logical Route’) several times I would dearly have liked to have seen with my own eyes some of those parts that remain unchanged from those days; indeed, unchanged for millennia.
Santa Cruz is much more built up than San Cristobal. Prices are correspondingly higher. Tourism is really the only industry and it dominates over all. Nevertheless, the Ecuadorians have done a good job of avoiding sterility during the development and it appears to be very pleasant based on a cursory wander around last night. I’m going to head to shore now and see if I can find some flax packing to re-seal the rudder shaft stuffing box. I only replaced it 3 years ago……… I wonder what the word for ‘flax packing’ is in Spanish………. and how I’d say “I’m not sure whether it’s 3/8-inch or 7/16-inch thickness so can I have both please?” This will be fun! Maybe they’ll put me out of my misery by simply not having any. It does seem likely under the circumstances 🙂
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Almost at the Galapagos…
It’s currently late morning on the 26th March and we can see the Island of San Cristobal about 6 miles off the port bow. It’s our seventh day at sea (I think) since leaving Las Perlas and the wind has been very much on our side. This passage is notoriously slow with large areas of the route having little or no wind and most boats are often left with only two options: 1) bob around in the same spot for days on end, or 2) start the loud and, at least in our case, unreliable motor engine. It looks like our passage will take a total of 7 and a half days, but it could have been twice as long if the winds lived up to their reputation. During our entire passage we only had to motor for 24 hours and we took in all sails last night and bobbed around for the night whilst we slept. Otherwise we’ve been able to sail beautifully, frequently making 7 knots and we’ve been able to reset the spinnaker this morning for the final leg of the journey. In fact, Bob made 165 miles over a 24 hour period during this passage – her all time personal best.
We caught 3 and a half oriental bonito fish on the first day. We caught 3 whole ones (which were filleted and stored for future dinners) and also reeled in only the front half of a fish as something large had eaten the other end! That same night we had dolphins swimming under the boat. Rather than playing at the bow they seemed much more interested in diving underneath the hull. The moon was almost full and the dolphins were lit up well as they jumped out of the water. You could even see them under the water as the phosphorescence made them glow like faint green ghosts floating just under the surface. They kept us company for a long time and I could hear their calls from down below for hours after I had gone to bed.
We crossed Neptune’s realm in the early hours of yesterday morning and we celebrated our arrival in the southern hemisphere by using up the last of our breakfast ingredients to have a really good fry-up. It was a wonderfully drunken day doing Neptune’s bidding, but unfortunately I’m not allowed to talk about it, in fact, I’ve already said too much…
As the winds and seas died down late yesterday afternoon, we decided to take in the sails and go for swim. It was wonderful to cool off and also a good opportunity to clean the hull in preparation for the Galapagos officials. It’s part of entry requirements to have a clean hull and we’ve heard from others that boats are often sent away from the islands if their bottoms are not spotless. Given that we were almost 60 miles away from land and in 1200 feet of water, I was surprised by the sea life here. We were in the water for less than an hour and I saw a small tuna and some transparent free-floating marine organisms which I think were comb jellies. They look a bit like jellyfish and are often mistaken for them. Rather than being dome-shaped they are oval or pear-shaped and are usually very small. There’s a small group of them known as platyctene ctenophores which look like transparent flatworms which I also saw around the boat, not to mention hundreds of minute shrimp living in any vegetation growing on the hull.We’re just making some fresh water at the moment and I’m just about to head on deck to do some laundry. It’s calm enough to hang out and it should be bone dry before we hit land later this evening.